Posts in category 'Great Oregon Hikes'
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31
The Obsidian Trail Never Feels Like the Same Hike Twice
The Obsidian Trail Never Feels Like the Same Hike Twice
July 28, 2026 • Three Sisters Wilderness • 11.0 Miles • 2100 Feet Elevation Gain
Every mountain has a personality. Some are defined by a summit. Others by a lake or a waterfall. The Obsidian Trail is different. Its personality comes from constant change. On this hike, the scenery transforms every few miles, carrying hikers through recovering forest, volcanic glass fields, alpine meadows, glacial valleys and cascading waterfalls—all in a single day. Having now hiked this trail several times over the years, one thing has become clear. The Obsidian Trail is never the same twice. Our July 28, 2026 hike followed the traditional Obsidian Trail to the Pacific Crest Trail before returning via Glacier Way, the route once used by climbers heading toward Middle Sister. The loop totaled approximately eleven miles with 1,911 feet of elevation gain and, on a quiet Tuesday, we encountered surprisingly few other hikers despite near-perfect weather. Unlike many hikes this summer, smoke from the Akawa Fire stayed well away from the Three Sisters Wilderness on our day, leaving deep blue skies and outstanding mountain views from start to finish.
Entering the Wilderness
The day begins beneath towering firs at the Obsidian Trailhead off McKenzie Pass Highway. A Central Cascades Wilderness Permit is required for this hike, but once on the trail the sounds of traffic disappear almost immediately. The first miles climb gradually through cool forest where moss hangs from old-growth trees and small streams still provide welcome reminders that water remains close by. It is a peaceful beginning that gives little hint of the dramatic volcanic landscape waiting farther ahead.
A Forest Still Recovering
Not long into the hike, the forest changes dramatically. Large sections of standing dead timber remain from the 2003 B&B Complex Fire, one of Oregon's largest recorded wildfires. Charred snags still dominate portions of the landscape, yet the forest floor tells a different story. Young lodgepole pine, wildflowers and grasses continue reclaiming the burned ground, demonstrating just how resilient these mountain ecosystems can be. It is one of the reasons this trail feels so dynamic. Recovery continues year after year, and every visit reveals another chapter in nature's rebuilding process.
Obsidian Falls
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Before leaving the forest behind, the trail reaches one of its hidden gems. Obsidian Falls spills over dark volcanic rock in a cool, shaded canyon, providing one final encounter with abundant flowing water before the landscape becomes increasingly volcanic. The waterfall isn't especially large, but its setting is beautiful and often overlooked by hikers eager to reach the obsidian fields farther ahead. The sound of rushing water accompanies hikers for only a short distance before gradually fading into silence.
Walking Across a Volcanic Glass Field
Then the mountain changes again. Dark volcanic glass suddenly covers the ground. Thousands upon thousands of shimmering black obsidian fragments crunch beneath every step, reminders of ancient lava flows that cooled so rapidly they never formed crystals. Unlike many volcanic landscapes in Central Oregon, this one almost feels polished. Sunlight reflects from countless pieces of natural glass scattered across the trail, making every step a reminder that this wilderness was shaped by extraordinary volcanic forces. Few places in Oregon allow hikers to experience volcanic geology this closely while remaining on an established trail.
The Overlook Above the Valley
Then, almost unexpectedly, the trail opens onto one of the finest viewpoints in the Three Sisters Wilderness. After climbing through the obsidian fields, the terrain suddenly falls away, revealing an expansive glacial valley framed by North and Middle Sister and the surrounding volcanic ridges. Below lies a broad alpine meadow known as Sunshine, while remnants of ancient glaciers have sculpted the landscape stretching toward the Pacific Crest Trail. We sat on the rocky overlook for quite a while, watching the valley spread out below us. On many hikes, the summit is the destination. Here, there isn't a summit at all—just a place that invites you to stop, catch your breath, and appreciate the scale of the wilderness. On this Tuesday morning we shared the view with very few people, a surprising luxury on one of the Cascade's most celebrated trails.
Sunshine Meadow
Leaving the overlook, the trail gently descends toward Sunshine Meadow, and the perspective changes completely. What looked expansive from above suddenly becomes intimate. Wildflowers line the edges of the meadow, a narrow spring-fed creek quietly winds through the grasses, and North and Middle Sister towers overhead in a way that photographs can never quite capture. This is where we noticed how different the mountain looked from last summer. Following a relatively dry winter, the creek carried only a fraction of the water we had seen during our 2025 hike. The spring still bubbled from the volcanic rock beneath the overlook, but instead of racing across the meadow, the water wandered lazily through the grass before gradually disappearing into the porous volcanic soil. Watching that little stream simply vanish into the earth was a reminder that these mountains are constantly changing. Even when you return to the same trail, nature writes a different story every year.
Returning on Glacier Way
Instead of retracing our steps, we turned onto Glacier Way, the former climbers' route that follows the eastern edge of Sunshine Meadow before gradually descending toward the trailhead. Looking back across the meadow, Middle Sister dominates the skyline while the little spring continues its quiet journey through the grass. It may have been a dry summer, but this remained one of the most beautiful alpine settings in the Three Sisters Wilderness.
The Glacier Way route offers an entirely different experience from the climb up the Obsidian Trail. Moss-covered rock walls, seasonal stream channels and scattered springs reveal where snowmelt normally tumbles down the mountain. This year many of those channels were already dry, making the few remaining pockets of flowing water feel even more special.
One small spring still spilled over moss-covered rocks beside the trail before disappearing beneath the meadow below—a fitting reminder that water here is never wasted, only hidden.
Why I Keep Returning
Having now hiked the Obsidian Trail multiple times, we've stopped thinking of it as a destination. Instead, we think of it as one of those rare places that rewards repeat visits. Some years the creeks are roaring. Other years they quietly disappear into the meadow. Wildflowers peak at different times. Snow lingers longer—or melts away early. Smoke may obscure distant peaks or, as it did on our July 2026 hike, leave crystal-clear skies that seem almost endless.
The trail changes.
The mountain changes.
Even the experience changes.
That's exactly why hikers keep coming back.
We've now hiked the Obsidian Trail in multiple seasons and over several years. If you're planning your own trip, you may also enjoy our earlier experiences, which highlight different trail conditions, water levels, and perspectives on this remarkable wilderness.
Hiking Statistics
- Trail: Obsidian Trail / Pacific Crest Trail / Glacier Way Loop
- Location: Three Sisters Wilderness near McKenzie Pass
- Distance: 11.0 miles
- Elevation Gain: 2100 feet
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Permit Required: Central Cascades Wilderness Permit
- Best Season: Mid-July through September, depending on snow conditions
20
Beyond the Burn: A Different Way to Reach Golden Lake and Broken Top's Hidden Tarns
Beyond the Burn: A Different Way to Reach Golden Lake and Broken Top's Hidden Tarns
There are two ways to reach Golden Lake in Oregon's Three Sisters Wilderness. The route most hikers know begins at the Green Lakes Trailhead. It's spectacular, climbing steadily toward Green Lakes before crossing the divide into the secluded basin below Broken Top. Unfortunately, it's also one of the most sought-after trailheads in the Central Cascades permit system. Unless you reserve months in advance—or get lucky with a last-minute cancellation—there's a good chance you won't be hiking
17
Black Crater: A Summit Reclaimed by Fire
Black Crater: A Summit Reclaimed by Fire
One of Central Oregon's Best Views — and One of Its Quietest Trails
Trail Statistics
- Distance: 7.0 miles round trip
- Elevation Gain: 2,300+ feet
- Difficulty: Moderate to Strenuous
- Time: Approximately 4 hours (including photo and water breaks)
- Forest Pa...
14
Hiking to Collier Glacier from Lava Camp: A Journey Across Oregon's Volcanic Landscape
Hiking to Collier Glacier from Lava Camp: A Journey Across Oregon's Volcanic Landscape
Distance: 14.63 miles out-and-back
Elevation Gain: 2,236 feet
Trailhead: Lava Camp Lake Trailhead – McKenzie Pass Scenic Highway (Hwy 242)
Difficulty: Difficult
Best Time: July through early October (depending on snow)
Most hikes have one destination. This hike has about six. Beginning at Lava Camp on the historic McKenzie Pass Scenic Highway, the trail to Collier Glacier feels less like one continuous hike and more like walking through the geological story of Central Oregon. Nearly every couple of miles the landscape changes completely—from dense forests to lava flows, peaceful alpine lakes, colorful wildflower meadows, volcanic cinder cones, and finally the stark alpine world beneath the glaciers of North Sister. By the time we returned to the trailhead, our GPS showed 14.63 miles with 2,236 feet of elevation gain, but the distance hardly tells the story.
Through an Ancient Forest
The hike begins beneath towering mountain hemlock and fir trees after about a mile of hiking through burnt forest. Unlike many Cascade hikes that immediately begin climbing, this trail eases hikers into the wilderness. Soft forest paths wind through lava rock that has slowly disappeared beneath centuries of moss and soil. Soon enough, glimpses of volcanic peaks begin appearing between the trees, hinting at what lies ahead.
The first Matthieu Lake is one of the hidden gems along the hike.
Arriving at the Matthieu Lakes
One of the first major landmarks is the Matthieu Lakes area, a popular backpacking destination within the Three Sisters Wilderness. The first lake appears almost unexpectedly through the trees. Calm water reflects North Sister while surrounding evergreens frame one of the prettiest alpine scenes along the trail. Camping is carefully managed here to protect this fragile environment.
The Matthieu Lakes are designated camping areas to help preserve this heavily visited wilderness.
The Forest Suddenly Ends
Leaving the lakes behind, the scenery begins changing dramatically. The trail climbs onto broad volcanic slopes where lava rock replaces forest floor. Ancient lava flows and black volcanic soils remind hikers that these mountains are still geologically young. Bright clusters of paintbrush provide a striking contrast against the dark volcanic landscape.
Brilliant paintbrush adds vivid color to the volcanic terrain.
A Detour to Yapoah Crater
One of the unexpected highlights of this hike is passing Yapoah Crater, a broad volcanic crater tucked into the rugged landscape between the Matthieu Lakes and Collier Glacier.Unlike the snow-covered peaks surrounding it, Yapoah Crater is a study in raw volcanic geology. Its steep walls of reddish cinders, dark lava rock, and loose volcanic ash reveal the forces that shaped this entire region thousands of years ago. Standing along its rim, it's easy to imagine the volcanic activity that once transformed these slopes. While many hikers focus on reaching Collier Glacier, Yapoah Crater is a reminder that this trail isn't simply about glaciers—it's about experiencing nearly every chapter of Central Oregon's volcanic history in a single day.
Yapoah Crater showcases the volcanic forces that built the Three Sisters region long before glaciers carved today's landscape.
One of the Best Viewpoints in Central Oregon
As the trail gains elevation, the forest falls away. Suddenly the Cascade skyline opens. From one overlook you can see:
- Belknap Crater
- Mount Washington
- Three Fingered Jack
- Mount Jefferson
- Mount Hood
Stretching across the horizon is nearly the entire spine of Oregon's Central Cascade Range. It is one of those viewpoints where everyone stops—not because the trail requires it, but because the scenery demands it.
A remarkable panorama stretches from Belknap Crater to Mount Hood.
Walking Into Another World
Leaving Yapoah Crater behind, the trail crosses an expansive volcanic plateau where trees gradually disappear and loose cinders replace forest soil. The landscape becomes increasingly stark, shaped by lava flows, pumice, and glacial erosion. Every step feels like walking across the flanks of an active volcano, with North Sister growing larger as Collier Glacier finally comes into view.
The landscape becomes increasingly volcanic at Collier Cone approaching Collier Glacier.
Finally...Collier Glacier
After miles of changing scenery, North Sister finally dominates the horizon.Below its steep volcanic cliffs sits Collier Glacier, once the largest glacier in Oregon. Although the glacier has retreated dramatically over the last century, viewing the glacial lake is still an unforgettable experience. Snowfields cling to surrounding ridges while freshly melted glacial water fills the basin below and the sound of the running water is unmistakable.
It feels wild. Remote. Almost untouched. Few day hikes in Oregon place you this close to active glaciers without requiring technical climbing.
After more than seven miles, Collier Glacier rewards hikers with one of the most dramatic alpine landscapes in Oregon.
The Return Hike
Unlike many hikes where the return feels repetitive, this trail offers an entirely different experience heading back. Afternoon light changes the colors of the volcanic slopes. The Cascade peaks appear from new angles. The forests seem even greener after spending hours above timberline. Every section reveals details that were easy to overlook while hiking toward the glacier.
The return hike offers changing light and fresh perspectives of North Sister.
Why This Hike Stands Apart
Central Oregon offers no shortage of spectacular trails. But few combine so many distinct landscapes into a single day. In one hike you'll experience:
- Ancient forests
- Alpine lakes
- Wildflower meadows
- Massive lava flows
- A towering cinder cone
- Expansive Cascade viewpoints
- Glacial terrain
- North Sister up close
Rather than feeling like one destination, this trail unfolds as a series of unforgettable chapters—each one completely different from the last. For hikers looking for one of the most diverse adventures in the Central Cascades, the journey from Lava Camp to Collier Glacier is difficult to beat.
Hiking Stats
| Trail | Lava Camp to Collier Glacier |
| Location | McKenzie Pass Scenic Highway (OR Hwy 242) |
| Distance | 14.63 miles round trip |
| Elevation Gain | 2,236 feet |
| Difficulty | Difficult |
| Trail Type | Out-and-back |
| Season | Mid-July through early October |
| Permits | Central Cascades Wilderness Permit required during quota season |
22
Hiking Grizzly Peak from Pamelia Lake: Rhododendrons, Mt. Jefferson Views, and the Legacy of the 2006 Milk Creek Landslide
Hiking Grizzly Peak from Pamelia Lake: Rhododendrons, Mt. Jefferson Views, and the Legacy of the 2006 Milk Creek Landslide
Few hikes in Oregon deliver as much variety in a single day as the journey from Pamelia Lake to Grizzly Peak in the Mt. Jefferson Wilderness. This hike begins in a lush old-growth forest, passes crystal-clear mountain streams, wanders through blooming rhododendron groves, and finishes with some of the most spectacular views of Mt. Jefferson you'll find anywhere in the Cascades. On a recent outing, we covered just over 10 miles round trip with approximately 2,700 feet of elevation gain. While the climb to Grizzly Peak requires some effort, the reward is a front-row seat to Oregon's second-highest mountain and a unique perspective on the power of...
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